zaterdag 9 augustus 2008

The alternative football atmosphere of TB Berlin and the unexpected Dynamo visit...

Nicht alle Berliner Herzen schlägen für Hertha.
 
This was the inscription of a t-shirt sold at the merchandise shop of Tennis Borussia Berlin. Indeed, TeBe as the club is usually called, is one of those small Berlin clubs that survive in the shadow of the very popular Hertha. Maybe Union Berlin can still count on a few thousands of loyal fans, but other former "Traditionsvereine" such as Dynamo Berlin (the club from the former Stasi, the DDR police), TeBe Berlin and such have all slipped away to lower leagues and survive now as tiny teams in the shadow of Hertha. But they survive, even when TeBe is now in the Oberliga, the 5th division (comparable with the Conference in England, or the 1st provincial division in Belgium).
 
Today was one of those rare opportunities for TeBe to be in the spotlights for once again. In the first proper round of the DFB Pokal (the German Cup), TeBe received the visit of Bundesliga team FC Energie Cottbus. For once a team of any fame visited the Mommsenstadion again, and for once TeBe was out of its anonimity even if just for a day. As the Mommsenstadion was the only Berliner stadium where I had not attended a game yet, I of course had to be there.
 
 
 
 
Tennis Borussia Berlin versus FC Energie Cottbus. The game sounds a bit odd for a football game when you hear those names. The first team almost sounds like a team that has gone lost and ended up in the wrong sports, while the other team sounds like a factory team right from the communist era when most teams were linked to government institutions or companies. A bit of history.
 
Tennis Borussia Berlin is not named like that by coincidence. The club was founded in 1902 and is one of the oldest clubs in the country. It started off as an omni-sports club where table tennis and tennis played an important role. Throughout the years, the tennis became less and less important while the football branch of the club became the most prominent team. TeBe evolved to become mainly a football team and I am not even sure if there is still a tennis branch within the club. But, to not just forget its history, the club stayed loyal to using the word "tennis" in its club name. The purple-whites have their home in the Mommsenstadion in the Charlottenburg area of Berlin, formerly West Berlin. It is in the outskirts of the city, in a very green zone surrounded by a lot of nature. Despite many relegations and financial problems, the club still survived without ever needing to undergo a merger, unlike many other Berlin clubs existing this long.
 
 
 
Maybe it is interesting to also look how such a club survives and how other clubs do. Hertha is obvious as it was always more or less the biggest club in West Berlin, apart from a few seasons. Hertha is the club for the masses and more or less non-political ever since the second world war was over.
 
Union Berlin is the second biggest club in Berlin, with attendances varying between 5000 and 15000. The club is from the Köpenick area of Berlin, former East Berlin, and was the club of the working class without ties to any political institution ; the popularity of Union lies herein that they were not connected or funded by the communist government. Their main rivals were Dynamo Berlin who were ruled by the Stasi, the secret police from the East German government, nowadays Dynamo plays in 5th division and attracts a very right-wing audience which is notorious for causing problems and racist issues (although this is a reputation that may not be completely true...).
 
And then there is Tennis Borussia, the last Traditionsverein to survive. Other older Berlin clubs such as Vörwarts Berlin, Blau-Weiß Berlin and Empor all died or merged. TeBe survived although it attracts a small following. The TeBe fans are known to be a quite alternative football audience: very strongly opposed to hooliganism or provocations and focused on football in a cosy atmosphere. The club also is known to attract some artistically minded people, and is not unpopular amongst politically left-wing people in Berlin. This means the club has a rather alternative following, small in numbers but a bit special. I must say this attracted me as well to attend a game of the club.
 
In the margins of those traditional clubs, more recent clubs have emerged as well of course, with Türkiyemspor Berlin being the most succesful and mainly attracting a multicultural and immigrant following.
 
 
 
Anyway, then there is the opposition of today. FC Energie Cottbus. Cottbus is about 200 km from Berlin and not too far from the Polish border. Indeed, former East German soil. In the communist times many clubs were linked to companies or institutions. Hence the many clubs named Dynamo (usually linked to the police of their city), Lokomotiv (linked to the state-owned railways), CSKA (army clubs) and more such clubs. I must say however I am not sure where the name Energie comes from, maybe the club was linked to an energy provider in the former GDR but I am not sure of that.
 
Energie Cottbus never played a role of much importance in the old East German league, dominated by clubs such as Union Berlin, Dynamo Berlin, FC Magdeburg and Dynamo Dresden. However, most of those clubs collapsed after German reunification and all of those former East German giants now play in the third or fourth league of the united Germany. Ironically, FC Energie however began to rise once Germany was unified and, along with Hansa Rostock, became the only club from former East Germany to become a more or less established Bundesliga team. As Rostock relegated last season, Energie Cottbus is this season the ONLY former East German club in the highest league of unified Germany. So we can definitely say the club has become a success story since the unification.
 
 
 
 
A short subway drive took me to the Mommsenstadion in the outskirts of Charlottenburg. To find the stadium was easy with big floodlights high in the sky and with many football fans drinking crates of beer in the woods between the subway stop and the stadium. You could immediately see TeBe attracts a loyal but small fanbase: even though they were playing at home, there were about twice as many Energie Cottbus fans hanging around the stadium. Also remarkable was a small group of Dynamo Berlin fans coming to the game. Why do Dynamo Berlin fans come to a game between TeBe Berlin and Energie Cottbus? Dynamo has a reputation of causing trouble during away games, so the police took some extra security measurements by putting all Dynamo fans together in the stadium, forming a somewhat bizarre "neutral fans" area. In theory I was a neutral as well, but I opted to stand in the Tennis Borussia end of the stadium.
 
Tennis Borussia used to play in the second Bundesliga at some point, long before they dropped to the Oberliga (5th division) where they are now. The Mommsenstadion can hold just below 15000 fans and is a memory of how big TeBe used to be. Now, the stadium is often looking very empty as TeBe plays its home games in 5th division for 500 to 1000 fans average. Today however, with some neutrals and many Cottbus fans who made the short travel, something like 3500 fans attended the game (I estimate that, with guests and VIPs included, it were more than 4000). TeBe used this opportunity handy and invited several local companies to have a small information spot in the stadium. Handy way to get some extra cash out of this one game they were receiving a decent crowd.
 
The stadium has, like many German stadiums, an athletics track around the pitch. I really dislike that. Other than that though, it was OK. A nice big stand with seats with a nice roof and comfortable seats. Underneath a paddock where the TeBe die-hards were standing. Behind the goal were curved terraces, and opposite of the main stand was the big terrace where the Cottbus fans (I estimate at least a small 1000) gathered. The unexpected Dynamo Berlin fans were, surrounded by police, gathering behind the goal. In fact this stadium looks nice really, especially with a nice forest-esque environment surrounding it. The terraces and the main stand are nice, and so is the VIP room where I managed to have a small look. The only bizarrity: none of the terraces have a roof, this privilege is only for those who pay to have a seat on the main stand. Also remarkable: a hypermodern scoreboard displaying the logos of both clubs and pictures of all players ; this may be common in professional teams' stadiums but for a 5th division team this is rather unusual.
 
 
 
 
So the stadium was nice. And yes, the somewhat alternative image of the TeBe fans is correct to a certain extent. If they are really left-wing is not sure to me, I did not discuss any politics. If artists and alternatives are drawn to TeBe is also not entirely sure to me, but it is likely to be true as I saw several somewhat eccentric people walking around the terraces and the fans all looked very calm. Not very vocally present, but just enjoying a chat and a cosy atmosphere. The non-hooligan and non-provocative image is 100% true and for that alone I respect their fans a lot (I dislike the tribalist terrace culture you often see at bigger clubs). And looking at the few somewhat eccentric fans (not large in numbers but still a few) the artistic image may be true, but I am unsure. I liked the atmosphere though, it was very friendly.
 
Also, before the game songs such as "Thunderstruck" by AC/DC and "A Love Like Blood" by Killing Joke (a band popular in the goth culture) were played. I never heard that before in a stadium but I loved it! Also, a version of the Ramones' classic "Blitzkrieg Bop" with alternative lyrics about TeBe was played. Yes, the alternative/artistic image of TeBe fans will probably be correct as well.
 
The fans of Energie Cottbus were more typical football fans: very vocally present and colourful. At some point during the game they even danced the pogo on the stands. Yes, the pogo... :)
 
All ingredients were there for a nice football evening. The only question was: how would a 5th division team be able to compete with a fully professional Bundesliga team used to play teams like Bayern München, Schalke 04 and Werder Bremen?? TeBe probably had entered the field with little hopes of winning and with the main target to just leave the pitch with the heads up high.
 
 
 
In the first 10 minutes the difference in leagues was not that clear really. Cottbus did play more on the half of TeBe and had more possession, but they were not that dangerous and TeBe did try to counter-attack whenever they had the chance. The first few tiny chances were for Energie, with a few shots from distance that missed the target. TeBe saw a free kick from Fuß (what an appropriate name for a soccer player) easily saved by Energie goalkeeper Tremmel. Another TeBe shot from distance also missed the target.
 
TeBe comfortably survived at first but almost brought itself in a nasty situation when a long ball from Cottbus was reaching a defender from TeBe who, despite no Cottbus player being near, headed the ball into corner and thereby narrowly missed his own goalpost. With a bit less luck this was one of the most silly own-goals you could imagine, but "die Borussen" got away with it. However, on the 20th minute Cottbus did as expected open the score when Pavicevic's cross from the right was shot into the net from close range by Rangelov at the first post. No chance at all for goalkeeper Stillenmunkes.
 
TeBe defended well and do receive credit for never giving up, but it was clear that their opposition was a bit too strong. A rare chance for the 5th division team was a free kick for Ahmetcik who shot the ball only narrowly over the Energie goal from 20m.
 
But only 7 minutes after the opening goal, Energie Cottbus doubled the score. Skela dropped the ball over the entire TeBe defense and saw Branko Jelic, with only the goalkeeper in front of him, volley the ball in the net via the far post. A great goal as the ball came at a difficult height but rather than controlling, Jelic chose a volley and made it a superb goal. 0-2 and in fact the winner was known at that point. The remainder of the first half, apart from a weak header from Cottbus, was not really worth mentioning: Cottbus knew victory was assured and easily controlled the game, while TeBe tried their best but clearly was not good enough.
 
 
 
The second half was basically Energie Cottbus controlling the game, with TeBe just trying to play a decent game. Jelic slipped through the defense after 10 minutes and was brought down in the box, the referee somehow failed to award a penalty kick. Little protest however with the Energie team in nice orange away jerseys, they felt sure of victory anyway.
 
There was little to see on the pitch, but unfortunately there was a lot to see aside the pitch. The Dynamo fans unfortunately confirmed what people feared: the few Dynamo fans who somehow attended the game, had come to cause trouble. In the zone where the approx 20 or 30 Dynamo fans gathered, suddenly people starting kicking and pushing bystanders, a lot of policemen rushed to that section of the stadium to interfere. Unfortunately this was not the end: some of those "fans" managed to run away into the area of the stadium where the (very well behaving) Cottbus fans were and starting attacking a few Cottbus fans. A very large number of policeman had to come in between to keep the hooligans away from the normal fans and avoid very serious riots, but some kicking and fighting did occur. I am not sure if people got arrested, but the police had to interfere in large numbers to prevent very serious riots. Such a shame that a very peaceful evening is disturbed by a group of hooligans from a club who was not even playing... I know, the majority of Dynamo fans are probably nothing like that, but it is a shame a small group of people were trying to ruin a very peaceful football night. Thankfully the police did their job properly before the riots were getting out of hand, but the things I see (I was luckily far away from the area where it happened) looked quite violent and bad... First time since I live in Germany that I witnessed violence in the stadium, and it is bizarre to see it was caused by people not even supporting the two teams on the pitch.
 
Once the situation on the stands had calmed down people could focus on the actual game again. An Atan free kick sailed over the crossbar. With 23 minutes to go finally some real excitement: an excellent shot from Angelov into the far corner of the goal was perfectly saved by TeBe goalkeeper Stillenmunkes with a very nice dive. Great save, followed by a rare Tennis Borussia attack resulting in a header from Griesert that missed the goal.
 
Although in fact it was long clear that Cottbus cruised to an easy win, the scoreline became totally decisive when in the 73rd minute the ball got stuck in the box but the TeBe defense could not clear it, Rangelov suddenly got posession and face-to-face with the goalkeeper he could no longer miss this chance. 0-3 and totally over and out.
 
Only 1 minute later it should have been 0-4. A rost cross reached Jula, who controlled only a few meters from the goal. This should be as easy as can be to finish off, but somehow he managed to shoot it against the post instead of into the net. A chance the average fan in the stadium would have scored, but with the 0-3 already on the scoreboard it did not really matter anyway.
 
TeBe never managed to make it Cottbus difficult but, probably also because Cottbus did not play at full speed most of the game, they were never overpowered and in fact deserved a consolidation goal as reward for never giving up. With 6 minutes left to go TeBe came very close to that 1-3 when Griesert's cross from the right reached Fuß in front of goal whose header from close range was only stopped by goalkeeper Tremmer just before the goalline. In fact this was the only big chance for TeBe and the only time Tremmer really had to save a ball. Other than that TeBe had some shots from distance who missed the goal, including a last efford shortly before time that curved past the far post.
 
 
 
 
0-3... Cottbus has an easy evening and TeBe did not get a very harsh defeat. "Our opponent is 4 leagues higher, but there is only a 3 goals margin", the stadium speaker said. So clearly Tennis Borussia were not uncomfortable with this defeat. The defeat was expected but they did the best they could and with a decent number of spectators they will have had a financially good day. The Mommsenstadion was nice, the TeBe crowd was friendly and cosy, the only downside were the "neutral fans" who tried to ruin it with their fights. When entering the stadium I was wondering why there was a large policeforce present, after seeing what happened I am glad they were there.
 
A nice evening after all, and next week the big games begin for both teams when Energie Cottbus kick off their Bundesliga season while Tennis Borussia begin their new season in the 5th division. For Cottbus the target is a worryless season in the mid table of the Bundesliga, for TeBe the target is promotion to the 4th division and slowly starting the climb back to their old glorious status.
 

zondag 3 augustus 2008

A visit to Magdeburg

Wir sind durch die Stadt gerannt
Ham keinen Ort mehr erkannt
an dern wir nicht schon einmal waren
Wir ham alles ausprobiert
Die Freiheit endet hier
Wir müssen jetzt durch diese Wand
Verlager dein Gewicht, den Abgrund siehst du nicht...
 
Achtung, fertig, los und lauf!
Vor uns bricht den Himmel auf
Wir schaffen es zusammen übers Ende dieser Welt
die hinter uns zerfällt
 
 
 
I am opening my diary entry with a quote from the song "Übers Ende der Welt", written by the best contemporary German poet/songwriter, Bill Kaulitz from the new German music sensation Tokio Hotel.
 
Why quoting Tokio Hotel?! Apart from the fact that I sort of like their music (I know this is a guilty pleasure), there is another good reason: today's trip took me to the only big city in the former GDR that I had not visited yet: Magdeburg, which also happened to be the city where Tokio Hotel were formed. Magdeburg of course is famous for a lot more reasons than having given the world Tokio Hotel. It was one of the most important medieval cities in the area and its town laws were spread across Europe known as the Magdeburg Rights. The voyage started at the Berlin Hauptbahnhof, a cheap 35 euro weekend ticket would allow me the 1,5 hour journey to Magdeburg central station. Achtung, fertig, los und lauf!
 
 
 
Magdeburg is not a big city, or at least the city is not that big. In fact I could walk through the historical center in less than 2,5 hours by foot and still see all historical places. Having been heavily suffering during the world war II, the historical sights in Magdeburg are not large in numbers, but they are nice. First of all the train station itself is quite nice as well. The walk from the train station to the inner city shows one of those things that former East German cities seem to have in common (when thinking back of Leipzig and Dresden): classy old houses and monuments next to hypermodern shopping malls and business complexes. It sounds wrong on many levels, but somehow it works fine and old and new go together well.
 
Most beautiful place is definitely the city hall (Rathaus) and the square it borders. The city hall itself is a beautiful building, a sober version of a baroque building with a few statutes. The whole square itself shows a lot of old houses of which one is worth a few pictures of your camera's memory card. In front of the city hall you can find the Magdeburger Reiter, a sort of big lamppost with golden decorations and a small golden statue inside of a knight on a horse. Not a big statue, but a beautiful.
 
We then cross a few more modern squares, including some Stalinist-esque architectures and a nice fountain, and then arrive at the main sight of the city. The "Hundertmeere Haus" (house of 100 seas). Why it is called like that is beyond my understanding, but it is a great sight. Describing it is hard because rarely you will see something equally bizarre. It is like a pink mansion with all sort of other colours incorporated, very bizarre shapes in the wall, balconies in a really bizarre form like you would see in a fairytale, golden domes, and all sorts of bizarre shapes and abstract figures decorating the building. Inside is a small courtyard with a fountain. Extremely bizarre but a unique sight. Opposite of this are a few old mansions that nowadays house a bank.
 
Also worth seeing and only a stonethrow away from this bizarre building, is the Magdeburger Dom, an old cathedral which also is a more sober version of baroque but still too stylish to be classified as gothic. It is considered a gothic cathedral and is one of Germany's oldest in its sort, but I would personally say it is somewhere in the middle between gothic and baroque. A great sight for sure. Behind this church is a park and a small promenade along the river Elbe.
 
 
 
 
So Magdeburg is small, the historical center is really small. It is smaller than Leipzig and MUCH smaller than Dresden. But it is still worth a visit, even if only to see the incredibly bizarre Hundertmeere Haus... This building alone is so special that it is worth the trip to Magdeburg. And for those wanting a small stop on their way to bigger cities in the area, strolling 2 or 3 hours in Magdeburg would be ideal as it allows you perfectly to see the entire city. Summarised: the city is nothing special and certainly doesn't feel like a big city, but the few nice buildings are still nice enough to dedicate 2 or 3 hours to this city.
 
PS: I was lucky that, although the heatwave was over, it remained dry and cloudless. So no need to go durch den monsun, hinter die Welt, ans Ende der Zeit bis kein Regen mehr fällt...
 
 
 
 
Next stop should be Istanbul although there may be another short trip added somewhere in East Germany. If so, updates will follow in my blog.
 

zaterdag 2 augustus 2008

Eisern Union in the Jahnsportpark!

Union Berlin hat nur 1 Heimat: an der Alte Försterei...
 
 
Since this season German football has 3 national divisions, while until last season there were only 2 nationwide divisions followed by the regional divisions. The brand new 3.Bundesliga was formed by a few relegators from the 2.Bundesliga, plus the best teams from the Regionalliga who narrowly missed promotion to the 2.Bundesliga. Amongst those latter teams is Union Berlin. The "Eisern Union" from the Berliner district Köpenick was in the running for promotion to the second division until the last game, when a 0-3 defeat versus Oberhausen terminated their dreams of promotion. But no worries, Union had long qualified for the new 3.Bundesliga.
 
This new "Dritte Bundesliga" started last week and contains quite a few nice teams with a long history: Dynamo Dresden, Union Berlin, Fortuna Düsseldorf, Eintracht Braunschweig, SpVgg Unterhachung, Carl Zeiss Jena, Wuppertal... they are all present in the newly formed third division. And indeed, Union as well. After their first game away from home in München it was time for the first home game of the season this weekend.
 
"Home" game is a bit questionable though for the Köpernicker outfit. Their own stadium "an der Alte Försterei" in the southeastern outskirts of Berlin was for a long time in danger of disappearing because it did not fit the standards for the new third Bundesliga. Several Union fans were outrageous: leaving the Alte Försterei was unthinkable and should never happen as it is a part of the club's history. A move to the Jahnsportpark where enemies Dynamo Berlin used to play, was even less acceptable. In the end the club found a solution: the Alte Försterei is being modernised so that Union can stay in their own Heimat. The modernisation is unique in a way: not only professional construction workers but also many fans who volunteered are rebuilding the stadium. Yes, the stadium is being rebuilt by the club's own fans!! The Alte Försterei will be completely up-to-date with modern security standards in less than 3 months and end of October, when Paderborn travel to Berlin, the new Alte Försterei will be officially opened.
Union can stay at home, only for 2,5 months while the construction works at their own stadium are going on, a temporary solution was needed. As no other options existed, Union will play 6 home games in the Jahnsportpark. Only 6 games and then back home to the Alte Försterei, this was acceptable for the fans as well. And thus, this first home game was played in the Jahnsportpark.
 
The Friedrich Jahnsportpark is situated in the Prenzlauer Berg district of Berlin, not too far from the city center. Prenzlauer Berg is, like Union itself, former East Berlin. It used to be a neighbourhood known for its alternative population including punks and artists. Nowadays it still is a bit like that, with many artists residing here and a vibrant nightlife with its many narrow streets and bars. The Jahnsportpark lies in the middle of a nightlife area so you won't get bored after the game... It is the second biggest stadium in Berlin at the moment, only the Olympiastadion of Hertha Berlin is bigger. The Jahnsportpark was used by several clubs in the past. The now defunct Vorwärts Berlin used to play its home games here, and Dynamo Berlin  as well for a while. Especially the latter was a reason why Union Berlin fans did not like the stadium: while Union was the people's club without ties to the communist regime, Dynamo was during the East German era the police club who often committed fraude in order to win trophies to please the communist regime. Needless to say the hatred between Dynamo and Union was big, very big. Since Dynamo left the stadium to move to the Sportforum a bit further down the area, the Jahnsportpark has served several clubs from several sports. American football, soccer, ... have all been played in the stadium. Hertha Berlin recently beat an obscure Moldovan team here (8-1) in the UEFA Cup while their own stadium was unavailable. Union Berlin itself used the stadium 8 years ago to play their European games in the UEFA Cup. From this season on, Türkiyemspor Berlin will have their home here because (after being promoted to the Regionalliga) their own stadium in the Kreuzberg area became too small.
 
And now Union Berlin are using the "stadium from nobody but for everybody in Berlin". The first 6 home games will be played here, before going back home to the Alte Försterei. The Union board hopes to use the occasion to promote Union Berlin to people living closer to the city center.
I had never been inside this stadium, only outside but with locked gates. I do remember the impressive sky-high floodlights, classic floodlights like in the good old days. Inside the stadium was quite nice actually, even despite the athletics track around the field. Because of the athletics track the stands around the field have an oval shape. Two stands aside the pitch have a roof (one of them is the quite high VIP stand) while the seats behind the goals have no roof. The stadium is an all-seater and, which gives it a colourful outlook, the seats are all in yellow-red-green. Yes, the colours of my beloved KV Oostende :) About 5100 Union fans have made the trip to the stadium, while opponent Stuttgart had brought about 30 maximum. If you include however the VIPs and guests who got in for free, you can say we probably had not much less than 6000 fans at this game.
 
 
 
 
 
Introducing Union is not really necessary, but the opposition today was far less interesting. The rules of the third Bundesliga say that maximum 3 reserve teams of 1.Bundesliga teams can participate. Union had to start last week against the reserves of Bayern München (and lost 2-1) and now another reserve team was the opposition: the reserves of VfB Stuttgart. Two reserve teams as first two opponents, you can hardly call that attractive games... (a third reserve team in the 3.Bundesliga are the amateurs of Werder Bremen).
 
I personally don't like reserve teams in the regular leagues. And today you could see again why: VfB Stuttgart reserves were supported by exactly 30 fans. OK, it is a long drive from Stuttgart to Berlin, but still. If this was the normal Stuttgart team there would have been several hundreds. Reserve teams simply don't interest or attract lot of people. Last week in München, the game between the Bayern reserves and Union Berlin was attended by only 3000 fans as well. Personally I would have prefered the likes of FC Magdeburg or VfL Lübeck in the third division instead of reserve teams of 1.Bundesliga clubs. But anyway...
 
 
 
 
The game started off with an aggressive Union team but apart from a lot of posession and mainly playing on the Stuttgarter side of the pitch, there were few chances. The first danger even came from the Stuttgart amateurs when a cross frpm the left narrowly missed their striker at the far post who could otherwise have slided the ball into the open goal. Union had most posession however and their noisy fans screamed them forwards. Gebhardt's free kick was the first good chance for the "Eisern Union". Shortly after Union broke the deadlock: a free kick from Gebhardt from the right reached Ruprecht who headed the ball into the net. 1:0 für die Eisernen!
 
10 minutes later Union doubled their lead: the Stuttgart Amateure did not clear the ball outside of their box, and a Ruprecht header was narrowly saved by goalie Ulreich. The ball bounced back in the field from the crossbar and Benyamina easily shot the rebound into the net. 2-0!
 
The second half was less exciting with VfB Stuttgart II being more dominant and having more posession, but they had very little chances. When they could not keep up their tempo, Union saw counterstrike possibilities. A Dogan corner was headed in by Benyamina but the Stuttgarter goalie saved. One minute later a new corner followed and this team Benyamina headed the ball into the net from close range at the near post. 3-0 and the Eisernen were now sure of victory.
 
Stuttgart's reserve team played well but was very sterile in attack, apart from a few shots from distance easily saved by the goalkeeper Glinker. 13 minutes before the end, Hofmann gave the Stuttgarter reserves a consolidation goal when he shot the ball past goalkeeper Glinker in the far corner of the goal. 3-1 but that latter goal was just a statistic.
 
Overall a deserved victory for Union whose fans seemed to have enjoyed their first day out in the Jahnsportpark. 5 more home games to go in Prenzlauer Berg, und danach ist's züruck nach Hause, züruck nach dem Alte Försterei! The home game versus Paderborn in the last weekend of October will celebrate Union's return home to the modernised stadium in Köpenick. Und niemals vergessen: Eisern Union, Eisern Union!
 
 
 
 
2/8/2008: 1.FC Union Berlin - VfB Stuttgart II : 3-1
Jahnsportpark, Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin
 
Union: Glinker - Göhlert, Stuff, Ruprecht, Kohlmann - Bönig (80. Menz) - Bemben, Younga Mouhani (66. Dogan), Gebhardt - Benyamina, Biran (87. Patschinski)
 
VfB Stuttgart II: Ulreich - Schwabe, Kovacevic, Feisthammel, Enderle (82. Rahn) - Ikeng - Funk, Träsch, Rudy (82. Klauß) - Schipplock (46. Schieber), Hofmann
 

vrijdag 1 augustus 2008

A lot of travelling... from Norway to Poland

The last weeks I have had very little time to update my blog, partially due to some travels. I thought I would stir up the travel desires in you all and report a bit on my voyages.
 
 
 
 
First destination: Oslo, Norway.
 
Oslo is the capital of Norway and only somewhat big city (unless you consider places like Bergen or Trondheim big cities, which I don't). The Norwegian capital has approx 600000 citizens but if you count in the surrounding towns you will get well over 1000000 people. About 50% of the country's population resides in the capital city or surrounding towns. It is rapidly growing city and one that attracts a lot of immigrants searching for employment and welfare. The city has a growing expat population with mainly non-European expats such as Pakistanis, Indians, Arabs, Turks, ... While growing more cosmopolitan, the city also expands in terms of population which means a lot of construction is going on. Despite that, Oslo is still not a big city like some other capitals such as Paris, London, Berlin, ... Oslo still has the cosy feeling of a big town rather than a metropolis.
 
Those who know me, know that Norway is the country of my dreams. It has been since childhood, and it has always remained like that. Countries such as Turkey and Israel can be added to that list, I am a Middle East fanatic as well. But my obsession with the far north and Scandinavia goes back to early childhood. In fact it is mainly the north of Scandinavia that attracts me. Everything above the polar circle, and in particular the city of Tromsø which combines the arctic feeling (no sunlight in winter, no sundown in summer) with a vibrant city life, strongly attracts me. The north of Norway combines desolate areas with a few small villages surrounded by mileslong wilderness, and a unique scenery. Places like Honningsvag or Grense Jakobselv (nowadays a ghost town but it used to be the very last outskirt before entering the USSR ; a sort of arctic gateway into the communist world) are the true edge of the world, unless you include very isolated arctic villages further north like Longyearbyen or Ny Alesund. I still hope to relocate to north Norway someday, but meanwhile a visit to Norway is always a pleasure even when the voyage takes me to the more southern outskirts of the country.
 
Oslo lies in the south of the country, by the south coast. The city is quite unique because it is surrounded by nature, unlike many other capitals. To the north of the city there is endless woods. Take a train only 20 minutes out of the city and you're in the middle of nowhere. Even the train from the Gardermoen airport to the city center goes through some rural areas with only a handfull of houses in several miles. Knowing some of those woods are on soil that belongs to Oslo municipality, means Oslo is a very green city. To the south of the city there is a big fjord with some small islands off coast. This fjord is extremely close to the city center, you can see the sea between the shopping malls and buildings when walking along the main boulevard in the center. Only 5 minutes walk from the main shopping street take you to the fjord, where a lovely promenade along the sea and a cosy marina await you. A drink on a terrace overlooking the fjord, followed by a walk through the hypermodern architecture of the neighbouring Aker Brygge district is a very idyllic way to spend your evening.
 
The train from Gardermoen airport takes you directly to the National Theatre close to Aker Brygge and Slottparken, or to the central station in the heart of the city. Slottparken is the big park where the royal palace is situated. You can walk through the park and just come extremely close to the palace. There is no fencing around the palace, it is just a building in the middle of the park. Some guards will make sure nothing nasty can happen, but other than that you can just walk passed the royal residence without any hassle or have a picknick a few meters further in the park. At the end of the Slottparken you find the main shopping boulevard Karl Johans Gate. All modern shops and a few hypermodern malls are on both sides, as well as some cosy pubs and classy restaurants. In the middle of the big avenue you have some terraces where people enjoy a drink. In between the houses and shops you can see the sea, as the big Oslo Fjord is only a 5 minute walk to your right, with a cosy promenade and marina overlooking the idyllic fjord.
 
At the end of Karl Johans Gate you can find the parliament building Storting which is worth a few pictures on your camera memory card. Once past this building you enter the nightlife district with, apart from the huge shopping mall near the central station, you will mainly find bars and clubs. Cross the river to the left of the center and you come in the Grunerløkka district of the city which is known as the big nightlife area. Grunerløkka is quite different from the rest of the center, as it mainly has a lot of small streets with older houses housing bars and pubs. No hypermodern architecture like Aker Brygge or no big malls here, but mainly narrow streets housing cosy pubs and bars.
 
Oslo is not a big city, even for a capital it feels quite small. It feels more like a smaller city than a capital, because the city center can be walked through in less than 1,5 hour and it doesn't breathe the atmosphere of a metropolis. But Oslo is cosy. It feels cosy and clean, and it combines some hypermodern sights with natural beauty and lovely scenery a stonethrow away from the main shopping and clubbing districts.
 
The cliches of Norway are proven correctly here as well. Yes, the women are drop dead gorgeous and most of them are blonde! Yes, the nights in summer don't last long, it gets dark only around 11:30 PM and before 5:00 AM sunlight is welcoming you again. And unfortunately yes, the country is damn expensive. I tried to keep my expenses low, but to give you an idea: a glass of coca-cola costs about 3 to 5 euro, in more expensive clubs probably more. I am not a beer drinker, but I heard those cost over 5 euro often enough. Internet cafe: 4 to 5 euro for an hour, while in my current home Berlin it would be 1 euro per hour maximum. Hotel, while not a luxury hotel, was about 60 euro for a night. Locals do earn salaries adapted to the cost of living, but for tourists and expats not used to Norwegian salaries the city is very expensive. Recent polls showed Oslo is in the top-10 of the world's most expensive cities. So this may not be the ideal destination for those who feel like clubbing and nightlife. Not that options are very diverse in that area anyway, probably enough choice if you just want a drink in a cosy pub but I could not find a single goth bar and only 3 rock bars of which 1 would close down forever the night after my visit...
 
But, overall I like this city. Small but cosy. The people are friendly and the vast majority of them speak English fluently so you won't have any problems talking to locals. Everything is very modern but with a bit of searching you find some more historical sights just as well.
 
One downside I need to mention: while I would love to relocate to Scandinavia, jobhunting is not easy unless you want to work in fishing, hospitality or unless you have a very high degree as engineer or so. For regular office jobs, companies will demand fluent knowledge of a nordic language, even though the majority of the people in the city speak English fluently. It is very hard to find vacancies you can reply to, as either the language is a barrier or the demands include a bachelor degree or higher. Working in a pub or hotel is an option but those jobs are not available all year and often enough they want you to work a few days as a trial and start immediately when you are doing well, so finding such job while still being based abroad is also very hard. I hope to realise my dream sooner or later, but it will be a goal that is difficult to reach.
 
 
 
 
Shortly after my return to Berlin, me and a few friends decided to make a day trip cross-border to Poland. Destination was Szczecin, a town less than 10 miles across the German-Polish border and thus very easy to reach from Berlin. Note: because few foreigners manage to pronounce the name of the city well, the Germans have their own name Stettin for the city. As this is indeed a bit easier, I will resort to using this name ;)
 
To reach Stettin you just take a train from Berlin-Alexanderplatz or Berlin-Gesundbrunnen and this takes you straight to Poland. Stettin is less than 1,5 hour away. The weekend ticket cost us 35 euro and divided by 5 this means 7 euro each. Bargain! The train drive took us through the countryside of the former East Germany, where miles without any sign of civilisation were followed by very tiny towns of less than 4 streets. I felt fascinated to know what the people living in such remote towns do for a living... As we crossed the Polish border and left the train in Stettin's central station, it felt like entering into a different world. Even though the German border is so close, the differences are huge.
 
The first sights from the train station were very old houses that apparently did not get renovation or paint in many decades. It felt a bit like a ghetto: very old houses in a bad state. We thought this may be just a few less attractive blocks, but soon enough while walking into the city center we realised the majority of residences were like that. The city seemed full of very old buildings that really need renovation or at least a layer of paint. They all look in very poor state, maybe they look pretty inside but with this appearance outside it really felt like a bit of a ghetto. A few of those blocks were full of graffiti and did not have glass in the openings that should normally contain windows. I felt sorry for those living in those particular blocks. It was a sunny day and it all looked a bit special, but I can imagine that in winters when it is dark and rainy, this city can give a depressing feeling if you live in the wrong areas.
 
Another thing that surprised me: despite the German border being so close, hardly anyone spoke English or German. In the dining places we visited, we often needed to point at the food we wanted, after which the waitress had to write down in numbers how many Zloty we needed to pay (yes, Zloty... like most new EU member states, Poland will only introduce the Euro as currency a bit later on. 1 Euro is something between 3 or 4 Zloty). It really felt a bit like a different world in some bizarre way.
 
However, the city looking old and sometimes a bit grey does not make it an ugly city. There is still enough to see. Not that Stettin is a place full of beauty and history, but there are some places worth seeing for sure. We saw a lot of churches (a lot more than you would see in the average city) of which a few were really nice. There was a more cosy area which featured some nice restaurants and terraces, and a lovely old mansion with a courtyard that contained some really lovely architecture. On that courtyard a Russian folk choir was performing Russian folk music.
 
It is not the most exciting city but it felt totally different than the average German city and therefor worth a visit and still stirring up the desire to travel. Also, we had our oddities to photograph such as a true army tank in the middle of the city center streets, and a tram with the carriage number 666 on it.
 
 
 
 
Then a few trips in Germany itself. I won't comment on Leipzig as I already did that before, even though the second visit was just as pleasurable.
 
Potsdam was the first stop. A small city in the suburbs of Berlin, but because Berlin is a Bundesland (county or state within the federal German republic) on its own, Potsdam is technically another Bundesland and serves as capital of Brandenburg Bundesland. It has about 150000 citizens or slightly more. The city is only a 20 km out of Berlin so very easy to reach. It is a small yet cosy city with some narrow streets in the center which serve as shopping district. A few old houses and a nice city gate (like a miniature version of the Brandenburger Tor in Berlin) gave the city center some nice sights. The gate is by the way called Brandenburger Gate, but definitely not to be confused with the big arch in the heart of Berlin.
 
The main attraction of Potsdam however, is the big park that contains the Sans Souci and several other palaces. The Sans Souci Palace is in the middle of the Sans Souci Park, only a stonethrow from the shopping streets. Sans Souci means "without worries". It contains a large lane full of nice statutes, a lot of green, many fountains, and several palaces. Nicest palace by far is the impressive Sans Souci palace which stands on top of a small hill with many trees and hagues between the stairs to the palace. The biggest palace is on the other end of the huge park and is called Neues Palais. About 5 or 6 other palaces and nice buildings can be found in the park, on both sides of the huge central lane. The nicest ones you should not miss are the Chinesisches Teehaus (a pavillion in Chinese style with some very nice golden decorations) and the Schloss Charlottenhof.
 
 
 
 
 
Saving the best for last then, as the last city I visited was probably the most beautiful one. Dresden is the capital of the Sachsen state within the federal republic of Germany. Dresden is in the extreme southeastern corner of the former GDR, very close to the border with the Czech Republic and less than 150 km from Prague. Distance to Berlin is about 200 km. It has almost 700000 citizens in the city proper.
 
Dresden is known as one of Germany's nicest cities in terms of architecture, but it is also a quite big city with many suburbs who each have their own character and some have their own sights worth seeing. To discover the whole city you need quite a bit of time, a Stadtrundfahrt (a tourist bus through the whole city) may be a good idea although the drive takes over 2 hours in total. The most central parts are the famous Altstadt (old city district containing all historical buildings) and the Neustadt (the new city district) and those are also the two areas I visited.
 
The Altstadt is definitely a must see. It is full of beautiful architecture. Old buildings and new modern buildings such as business complexes and malls go hand in hand, but the old buildings dominate the cityscape of this district. Most impressive is definitely the Frauenkirche in the middle of the market square, it is a beautiful old yet colourful church. Surrounding the church are a few opera buidlings, museums and other halls who each have an equally beautiful appearance with mainly baroque outlook. When going away from the market place you come in the Kneipenviertel where you will find a few narrow streets with many cosy restaurants and bars that, during the heatwave we experienced during our visit, have terraces all over the street until late night. Add a nice fountain and another old church next to the pubs and you get a really cosy feeling.
 
Even outside of the heart of the city you will stind find a lot of academies, opera buildings and churches who each have beautiful architecture to offer. Dresden clearly is a baroque city and this style pleases me a lot. The city center is not large, you can walk through it in 1,5 to 2 hours time, but it has a lot to offer with beautiful buildings and monuments on nearly every street corner. The Hofkirche is definitely a must-see. Just outside of the city center you find a very weird building with minarets in a more moder style (it looks like a sort of future-esque mosque) and the extremely beautiful Zwinger Palace, a huge palace accessible through a bridge over a small river and an impressive gate decorated with gold. The tower overlooking the inner yard of the palace is beautiful and the whole palace is extremely pretty to see. Don't forget to consume a drink or lunch on one of the many market squares in the city, enjoy a drink or meal surrounded by the fantastic architecture of the Altstadt!
 
The Neustadt is less impressive but still worth a short visit. It is a collection of very narrow streets where the (not necessarily new!) houses are home to a somewhat alternative population of punks, goths, students and such. Many small pubs, punk and goth stores, record stores selling hard-to-find music, small restaurants etc give this city area a somewhat special touch, even though it has no monuments to witness. But with its alternative touch and wide variety of subcultures present here, it definitely has a nice atmosphere and is worth a short peek. The bridge connecting the Neustadt to the Altstadt overlooks the river Elbe with in the background the towers of the many impressive churches in the Altstadt. A lovely sight, and an excellent place for a picknick or sunbathing along the river if the weather is fine.
 
Definitely a city I would recommend to visit.
 
 
 
 
In two weeks time I am off to Istanbul. Back to the city for which I felt love at first sight and where I spent several months full of pleasure last year. Reports of that travel will follow as well of course, as well as photos of my last voyages I just described.